Secretive Serenity in Ljubljana, Slovenia
To veer off the beaten path of your European vacation venture past Italy and hop on a train that will sweep you through a valley into Ljubljana, Slovenia. The capital city of Slovenia is an upcoming tourist destination. The furtive mood combines a sense of hidden energy in a quiet social setting until sunset. Just as the mysterious beings you’ve feared in your dreaded school literature classes wait until dusk to emerge, the silent old town suddenly fills with peaceful families and eager college students out for a bite of ice cream. Yes, ice cream lovers stroll along the cobblestone streets with baby carriages and docile conversations in droves. Anyone who enjoys eating and walking will appreciate the numerous shops, cafes, and bridges intended for socializing. Once the sun sinks and darkness falls across the river, the town erupts with enthusiastic street parties.
Ljubljana nuzzles against both sides of the Ljubljana River, which carries murky waters in a motionless current. Throughout history, numerous cultures desired control over its prime setting. No wonder the Argonauts selected this city to boast their Golden Fleece. Napoleon saw such strength in the city’s location, he named it the capital of his Illyrian Provinces. It served as the Roman Emona and the capital of the Province of Carniola. Today, Ljubljana holds the Congress of the Holy Alliance where European statesmen brainstorm and numerous trade shows.
Invasions by diverse cultures merged the creative ingenuities of dominate cultures. The buildings combine a Viennese flare with Art Nouveau, Baroque and Renaissance details. Their local artist, Joze Plecnik, is responsible for many sites, including the Cobblers Bridge where shoemakers established their marketplace. Now you can find beaded jewelry and collectible posters sold from huts. Enterprising musicians provide street performances and crumbling buildings house new age clothing shops.
There are several town squares connected by narrow streets. Look for the favorite lovers within the community. The lovebirds were forbidden from tying the knot and in honor of their undying loyalty to one another, the city has a mural of a window where the woman waves her handkerchief at a mural of her soul mate across the courtyard.
The city is known for its Slovenian Philharmonic Hall, which was one of the first music societies in the world. Masters such as Haydn, Brahms, Beethoven, and Paganimi became honorary members of the orchestra. The resident conductor in 1881 was Mahler. The Slovenian National Opera and Ballet Theater is in a Neo-renaissance palace that has symbolic sculptures for dramatic effect. Throughout the year, Ljubljana hosts fantastical festivals featuring jazz, alternative music, and international arts, among others.
The museums have retained the rare art pieces from moments in history that other countries hastily dismissed. The Modern Gallery offers paintings, sculptures and prints by Slovenian 20th century artists. The Museum of Modern History provides a visual display with sound effects of the 20th century Slovenia from Austria-Hungary through World War II and the Tito period. The National Gallery displays artwork created by Slovenians from the 13th through the 20th centuries with sprinkles of European paintings. The National Museum holds the Vace Situle, a Illyrian bronze urn from the 5th century BC. Robba’s Fountain was created by the Slovene sculpture Francesco Robba in honor of three rivers that feed Slovenia. I regret not purchasing a simple sketch of Saint Raphael from a quant antique shop beside a sports bar.
The city is a college town and students congregate on the steps of the pink Franciscan Church built between 1646 and 1660. Another noteworthy Baroque building is the Cathedral of St Nicholas with main doors that tell about the previous struggles of living as Christians in Slovenia and a side door with images of the Ljubljana diocese.
Aside from the mysterious atmosphere of the Dragon Bridge and the historic French Revolution Square, and the Triple Bridge with its incorporated buildings, and the Town Hall featuring battle scenes, and Vodnik Square surrounded by flowers, fruit venders and vegetable huts, the magnificent hilltop castle is a must see.
You can reach the castle on a tram car or be like the vigorous students and walk up the hill to take a nap in the park designed by Plecnik. From the Ljubljana Castle you have views of the terra cotta rooftops framing the river. The castle walls were built during the 16th century and the tower was added within the 19th century. On the castle grounds are a terrace, a café , a craft shop and gardens.
If you prefer the great outdoors, there are gorges, brooks and lakes where you can hike. Health resorts take advantage of the natural springs and waterfalls.
Ljubljana is a definite yes for families in search of a tranquil destination and also for youthful travels who thrive on adventure. Visualize an unspoiled Prague and a tranquil Budapest and you will know what to expect.
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