iTourNow

Huff in Stride, Take a Glide: Venice, Italy

@ FeelingFiction

Named in honor of the goddess Venus, 117 islands on the marshy, saltwater lagoon along the northeastern coast of Italy create an alluring atmosphere of maritime mastery and classical theatres.  Venetians love luxury and share their refined tastes in silks, architecture and masks with the same flare they adopted during their wealthiest period from the 13th century through the end of the 17th century.  Venice is the place to go if you are a fan of the Renaissance period with all its music, operas, fashions and history.   

You can arrive by train, which builds anticipation as you stop at small depots where homeless looking teenagers board carrying backpacks and sleeping bags.  No vagabonds are allowed in Venice for the night.  The train rattles across murky lagoons and passed parking lots full of Italian residents who work in Venice but live on the mainland. 

After the shock of a rundown train station full of conflicting movements of hectic travelers and lazing hippies, you exit into a world of delight with the same electrifying energy of Diagon Alley on the other side of the Leaky Cauldron’s wall in the Harry Potter series. 

The sun streams down on a canal outside the doorway.  Facing you are magnificent facades with quoins and scrolled edges in terra cottas and vermilion.  Vaporettos drift calmly, surpassed by speeding flatboat taxies.  Bridges span the waterway and alleyways lined with delightful hotels in Venetian, Egyptian and cathedral designs branch in several directions. 

“I love Venice.  I can just see Mozart lounging on a vaporetto decorated with fabrics and feathers during the Renaissance when he lived here,” I announced dreamily to my dear Yankee husband.

He replied curtly, “That’s Vienna.  Mozart never lived here.  People always get Venice and Vienna confused.”

I accepted his reprimand regarding my stupidity with dignity.  We dismissed the matter by tumbling down the steps, dragging our luggage behind.  Ideally, your hotel will be on the same island as the train depot.  Otherwise, you will need to take a boat taxi, either private or public, to your hotel because crossing the bridges is cumbersome after a while.  If you arrive by boat on the opposite side of Venice, you will definitely want to take a boat taxi down the winding canals to your hotel doorstep, which is quite fascinating.

We examined the city on foot, with a stroller in tow, so we wouldn’t have to carry the little whipper snapper.  My husband, eager to take in the entire city, including all its crumbling, desolate, and bustling dead ends, barreled through crowds of casual walkers, leaping up and over bridge after bridge, after bridge.  I kept mentioning that I sure could imagine Mozart living in Venice.  He played classical music for the rich folks during the winter seasons and spent summers farther north. 

“No.  It’s Vienna,” was the constant reply. 

We moved so quickly, I soon lost my strength and complete strangers broke free from their understanding companions to help me lift my stroller up and over the steps, only for me to chase my husband down a crowded alley as he searched for more suitable shops.  No matter which alleys we venture down, we eventually returned to the same bridge. 

Finally, after several hours of our adventurous wanderings, I asked my husband if we could rest at the top of the bridge and take in the lovely beauty of the scene.  I caught my breath as a vaporetto ambled below our bridge.  The enveloping earthy autumn colors painted on the surrounding textures soothed my senses. 

And then, lo and behold, I noticed an enormous sign – eight feet tall and five feet wide – that took up most of the side of a building next to the bridge.  It began something like, “This is the house where Mozart lived,” and then gave details of his life in Venice. 

I nudged my husband and proudly declared, “See, I watch TV.  I know my history.” 

On your first day in Venice, you will have an overwhelming urge to purchase theatrical masks; however, after a while, the excitement wears off.  Be daring and venture down those intriguing alleyways alongside interconnecting canals.  Find out what’s on the other side of the next bridge.  The decaying neighborhoods have the same beauty as the refurbished sections.  The accessibility to the mansions is breathtaking, just an arm’s length from a boat.  A glide to one side and there you are, inside the foyer of a palace. 

 Key points of the city include the Basilica of St Marks where you can receive blessings by visiting the bones of the disciple of Jesus Christ.  It is said that the Venetians stole his bones from another province, so possibly there are negative vibes mingled into the environment.   Harry’s Bar boasts having masterful writers and artists create their greatest works within its walls.  Ernest Hemingway is one of the most famous regulars and you can purchase several of his books at the bar.  It is a viable spot to meet enterprising young people and for examining the older couples who actually have enough money to order the colorful drinks.

Boat tours to nearby islands expand your romantic surroundings.  Each island has its own unique flavor.  A monastery fortress fills one private destination.  A fisherman’s island is lit with yellow buildings and vibrant fabrics cover the doorways.  The most amazing glassware is made on the islands, purchased by famous actors and politicians.  Supposedly, during the Renaissance era, glass contacts were available.

 You don’t have pay top dollar for a meal.  Numerous inexpensive pizzerias and corner bars have simple dishes.  Forget watching your weight.  At every turn and within every drinking establishment are selections of ice cream and Italian desserts.  Save enough cash to pay the high price of a midnight sail on a vaporetto.    

Venice is the perfect destination for everyone, whether you are a poetic college kid, a grumpy couple, or a rambunctious family.  Go, and take in as much as you can.  It is a place you will return to many times.